First off here are the tools you will need.

Swear Box, insulation / electrical tape, pliers or a bench vice, and plenty of money. Please note that the change in the picture was my first estimate at the cost of this bit of maintenance.

Step 2 is to remove the existing line.
Slide down the neoprene cover to expose the knot underneath. In short the 2 ends of the line are tied together in a simple overhand knot and then secured to the trim strap with a larks head knot. With a bit of persuasion and persistence it will come. Feed the Swear Box with change as appropriate

Step 3 is to remove the 5th line attachement bits. The photo shows this and it’s pretty straight forward. Perhaps only needing a small donation to the Swear Box.

Step 4 is to remove the Chicken loop from the lines etc.

Step 5 is to start installing a new line / chicken loop. First prepare one end of the line by wrapping some insulation tape around the end and form a nice long tail as shown below.

Next step is to feed it through the Chicken loop and put a temporary overhand knot in it to stop it falling out. This is essential to save funds for the tricky operation ahead. Failure to do this will result in the Chicken loop falling off at some point, followed by lots of creative language and a considerable contribution to the Swear Box

Step 7 is to prepare the other end to go through the tight hole of the loop. Remove the tape off the other end of the line and grip the free end to the rope below the chicken loop with the pliers or put them in a vice. If you are using pliers get a friend to hold them while you pull it tight. Fasten the two lines together with more tape and work your way back towards both free ends. The tension helps to keep the overall diamter down. Your are aming for a nice smooth tapered profile like I’ve shown below and it needs to be a bout 6cm long.

Step 8 is to carefully pull this through the hole in the loop by the end you’ve already put through. With luck nothing will slip and it won’t jam. Otherwise there will be some substantial contribution to the Swear Box.

Finally you can put it all back together. Make sure the knot on the line is secured in teh cavity in the chicken loop.
5th line is attached to the ring as follows

All done and with some luck you may have some money left. I didn’t fare to well as you can see

i got an problem with my 3.0 bar for the diablo.
my depower koort break 1 day ago so now i need to replace it.

her is the problem.
i take out the old line from the chicken loop.
but now its inpossoble to put an new 1 inside.
can some 1 tell me how to make this easyer for me ?

sorry for my bad english btw.

thanks andre

~ Mahalo

Thanks

Tyler

It was the stem from the leading edge bladder, going to the last strut.

The kite was sitting on the sand, as I was winding up the lines. The odd thing is, I couldn’t find the stem. Not clamped into the strut tubing( little plastic black clamp still in place), or in/on the main bladder. Poof…gone!

Anyway it was a used kite, so no warranty, but I wonder can this be repaired, if yes, where( I’m in the lower mainland), or do I need to replace the whole leading edge bladder?

Thanks very much for your help.

George

Doh…I had a thought, just as I finished typing the above. A law of physics popped into my head, you know the one where matter remains constant in the universe, or something.

Anyway went out and fumbled around with the leading edge some more, and found the stem still there appearing to be attached to the bladder! I guess the black clamp released the stem and it just popped back inside the leading edge.

I’ll pump it up, to ensure no damage. Now my thought is, why did it release like that? Are the little black clamps not strong enough, or was it pumped up too much…my pump said 8-9lbs! I’ll check it.

That would suck if I was on the water.

Sorry about that long post…I’ll leave it in case a knob like me has the same thing happen…So…How about the Red Wings this year…?

Note that this fix is provided by me on a personal basis and by no means as a recommendation from Ocean Rodeo - apply this information at your own risk!

The stainless eyelet is made from a stock M12 nut, AISI 304 (A2 in Europe) grade will do, but if you can get AISI 316 (A4) grade steel use that. As stainless steel and aluminum don’t go together very well in sea water due to galvanic corrosion, a simple trick is applied to galvanically separate these two materials: a piece of mesh is pressed between the aluminum and the steel.

I have used a wee lathe to turn down the nut to Ø18. Using a press drill and a file also works. Keep the outer surface course for the adhesive to grab.
Saw the eyelet to 6mm length, and file the inner edges to a semi-circle R=3mm. Follow with sand paper and polishing paste.

Use a Ø12mm drill bit to remove the thread
Saw the eyelet to 6mm length, and file the inner edges to a semi-circle R=3mm. Follow with sand paper and polishing paste.

With a Dremel and a tool bit like this, ream the worn bar hole.

You can file down the protruding edge of the bar hole first, and from the top of the EVA foam, go in about 6mm. Make the hole diameter about Ø18.5, and make sure you’re centered with the bar. The glue residue on my bar is from an earlier experiment, don’t take notice.

Grab a piece of mesh (I cut this from the repair set of my dry suit, sorry OR) and cut it to about 4x4cm. Fit the eyelet like this. There should be no metal-to-metal contact between the stainless steel and aluminum!

Clean everything with denatured alcohol, and mix some 2 component adhesive. While a good epoxy or PU adhesive will probably do, my favorite is 2 component MMA (methacrylate), available from many different brands - a popular one is Plexus from ITW.

Fit the eyelet like shown, make sure there’s plenty of adhesive in the gaps so you can cut/file/sand down everything nicely once it’s cured.

Cured and cut, not the cleanest looking fix but it will surely work.
One nice thing about it, the stainless eyelet will also wear, but by the time it’s getting bad, it can be pressed out and a new one can be inserted - if the rest of the bar is still in a condition to make that worthwhile.

If you have questions just post them down here.
cheers,
Rudo

TT Freeride
135 x 35 cm

cheers & happy mako riding to all,
Buzz
(Thailand)