ONE BRIDLE MOD – DYNAMIC FRONT / REAR LINE DIRECT
Here is a slightly more modern bridle mod, yet still really simple to do. This mod removes the static front bridles allowing the kite to find an optimum position regardless where it sits in the wind window. The direct rear line obviously increases turning response and greatly improves re-launch abilities.
You will need several meters of suitable bridle line
As a bonus, such a mod can be used on many different old SLE/ Bow bridled kites as it is a dynamic auto adjusting set-up.
Once again I have tried to utilise as much of the original bridle as I can and once again, you should be able to follow this mod for all kite sizes – I have included measurements for the 12m 2006 for reference)
(PLEASE NOTE – the original bridle lines were not made to resist abrasion from pulleys, so I would suggest replacing lines ‘E’ with a more suitable line - I have made it so line ‘E’ is easily changed over at any stage).
Part 1 .
Remove all bridle lines from the kite. You may want to make several of these simple little ‘2 knots on a piece of line’ adapters. I found them useful for making the bridle quickly and easily changed by simple larks heads. See pics 1 -3
Part 2 .
Make a ‘V’ using lines G,E,I, with a pulley running on line E. Attach to the 2nd and 3rd points from the inflation valves on the leading edge. See Pics 4 and 5. In this case the total length of the V made from joining all the pieces on the 12m was approx 333cm. This makes sure the bridle will never wrap around a strut tip.
Now starting from the newly added pulley, make another large V that runs well clear of the struts on the kite See Pic 6. Attach another pulley to this line and then attach the other end of the V to the next attachment point on the leading edge (F attachment point). This pulley will be where you will attach your front lines, so add a suitable attachment pigtail. Your rear line will need to match this point See Pic 7.
You could use your left over bridle lines to make this, and simply add small sections at the bottom of the V, similar to what we have done with E above. However, at around 50c a meter, new V’s probably wont break the bank.
For reference, the 12m second V total line length is 5.9m – I made it this length as I have used the line extensions that came with the OR Bar as my new rear lines. This V could be smaller, some feedback from other uses could help to see how small we can make this V without the kite becoming too ‘twitchy’.
Add a long pigtail to the rear attachment point (direct single line). I used 2 of the OR line extensions (one for each side) as I don’t use them usually. These need to be the same length as the front line attachment points when the front line V’s are extended as long as they can and the kite is tilted forward (as if it were depowered in the air). If in doubt, make the rear lines slightly longer. It should appear longer when the kite is sitting normally on the ground. See Pic 8 - ignore the line coming from the old pulley location, it is currently not used. This may be a future add on that provides heavier bar feel when the kite is overhead (better jumping feedback) but light as a feather when in the park and ride position. Haven’t seen this done by any other manufacturer yet – Anyone want to give me a job
*Sorry I couldn’t upload all photos as there is only a 150kb limit.
upload more pics to http://www.imageshack.us
then just paste the link for the pic
i think a pic of the finished setup would be cool
Tech Rep, Southern UK.
LF Mission with Ronix Scouts
Wisha - after cobbling together a short version of the NEW line in your Mod 1 and having huge success, I’m keen to try this one too, how does it affect power/de-power and turning speed ?
Is it better than Mod 1 + the direct steering mod ?
Glad to hear you like it. What size kite did you mod? Would be good to know how it goes on all sizes.
To be honest, since it’s winter here (no summer sea breeze) I haven’t had a lot of time on the water to test it. I had a sweet session with the new setup in the 15-20 knot range. Compared to the first mod I think it turns better, definitely relaunches better and has a bit more grunt (depower and bar pressure are the same). Also, it didn’t seem to surge forward and drift back again in gusts as much. However, I haven’t had a chance to test the stability in lighter inconsistent winds. Also needs the leading edge nice and firm (nothing too crazy - about 8 PSI) since it is a direct rear connect.
Feedback from other riders would be good.
I did a Mod 1 on a 12m 2006 One, quite a short NEW line, still noticed huge improvements. For my detailed review, see the previous Mod 1 thread, page 2.
Just laid out this Dynamic Front / Direct rear line on one side of my 12m, quite a simple bridle, visually there seems to be a lot of the middle of the leading edge not bridled, with this config starting at the second attachment point. Would it be worth adding a bridle line from the first attachment point to the inboard end of the pseudo E line that the top pulley runs on ?
If it gives the same lighter bar pressure, good stability, and faster turning, I’ll try it next.
How does this do it yourself mod compare to the official OR 2006 One mod? (http://oceanrodeo.com/forums/viewthread/270/)
I have a 2006 OR One 16m. I bought the kite used and decided to give the sport a try after trying out a few friends kites. They both had newer versions of Cabrinha kites. (Switchblade and Crossbow I believe) I’m not on the board yet, just trying to master flying the kite in waist deep water.
After getting my kite all setup the one thing I did notice was that it turned slower than the other kites that I have tried. So I want to do something, just not sure what is the best route. Can you still buy the OR upgrade kit? Or should I try the DIY method in this thread? I don’t have any spare lines/pulley’s etc. Where can one go to get bridle line and the parts to do this?
If anyone has a 16M One upgrade bridle they want to manufacture/sell by all means PM me with the price!
Padair - for a newb just starting out, a slower-turning kite is considered by most to be easier to learn on. So no rush, use your 16 as-is for while. The recent bridle mods by Wisha for the One are still in the “testing and de-bug” stage. Waiting will allow experienced riders time to report what works best. As a newb, you don’t want to be experimenting with bridle configurations. No-one has done the new mods to a 16m yet, you don’t want to be the first trying to figure out what lengths the new lines should be.
I bought a OR bridle upgrade kit for my 12m back when came out, very slight improvement in turning speed but increased bar loads. IMO, I wouldn’t bother with it.
When you are past the early learning stages ( body-dragging downwind and upwind, riding the board downwind and then upwind ) and are feeling that the slow turning speed of your 16 is limiting your ability to jump, then it’s time to do a bridle mod. Right now you have a really good kite to learn on, tons of de-power, fairly stable, and built like a Sherman tank.
If you want to prepare for DIY bridles, start looking for a source for :
- Ronstan RF13101 kite blocks ( the pulleys )
- 2.5 mm diameter ( 7/64 inch ) Samson Amsteel dyneema line ( line running over the pulleys )
- 600 lb. Q-powerline ( for bridle lines that don’t run over a pulley )
You may be able to find all 3 at your local kite shop(s), or maybe the first 2 at a marine supply store. All can be had from a variety of online suppliers.
BTW, if you are a newb on a 16m One, I hope you are a heavyweight ( 200+ lbs. ) - if not you may want to think about about learning on one size smaller kite ( i.e. a 12m ).
First impressions after a moderately-powered day on my 12m ‘06 One with this bridle mod - BIG improvement in turning speed, not quite as fast as my 12m Rise, but much faster turning than with the factory steering set-up, even with the kite de-powered or the bar sheeted out.
Bar pressure was less than factory, but not as light as the previous Wisha Mod 1 set-up.
De-power and stability were fine, although I didn’t really get enough wind to test at the top end. Low end power was great, so much easier to work ( sine ) the kite.
Kite didn’t get wet and I didn’t put it in the water to test re-launch, will have to wait for another time.
The kite had the same flat shape that it has with the factory bridle. I will post the exact lengths of the bridle lines I used either tomorrow or on the weekend.
Again, thanks Wisha !!
Oooh, yeah. Can’t wait!
Good stuff, glad to see people giving it a go. I hope you also enjoyed the side benefits of an increased turning speed - bigger jumps, and it now loops nicely.
I do have a solution to lighten the bar pressure, but it adds complexity, and it is still a lot better than the original setup.
As for relaunch, I guess it is a good sign that it didn’t touch the water, but I can definitely guarantee that it is HEAPS better as it now pulls directly from the tip.
Cheers for your feedback Greg!
Right I’ve finally got my 9m ONE back and working. Short session on it today and I was able to have a good look at the bridle set up and movement in flight. Couple of things I noticed.
1. The tips do pull in slightly on it whenyou power up on the bar.
2. The front attchemnt point moves sideways (almost like it’s on a pulley) when you move the bar in / out
3. The rear attachment is actually pulled forward a bit by the front bridle / pulley line.
Up shot is I’m tempted to have a go at the bridle mod I sketched earlier in this thread (I think it’s this one). should end upo similar to the RISE but will have a V at the rear. (mine will be more direct I think)
The only kiter in the Village
My line lengths for this dynamic bridle modification on a 2006 12m One :
Direct rear line - attached to wingtip ( fifth or most out-board position on the kite ) 267 cm loop to kook-proof loop
Lower V line - 615 cm ( a bit longer than Wisha’s 599 ) with a 4.5 cm leader on the pulley - this is the point the front line bar line(s) attach
Upper V line - 310.5 cm ( again a bit shorter than Wisha’s ) with a 5.5 cm leader on the upper pulley
Additional line from kite’s first ( or most centre ) attachment point - lenth 133.5 cm ; joining the line coming from the second attachment point ( I used the old E bridle line at the second attachment point & my E’s are ~ 92 cm )
I too have re-attached the original A line, adds a little bit of anti-stall ability in light winds. I Probably should post the updates.
Also, with the bar pressure, with the dynamic mod you should be able to pull in more depower trim than before, but still maintain good power as the bridle will adjust. Give it a go next time its gets a bit heavy. However, I will put up some add-ons if you would like it less.
I read on another post you wanted more stability. Basically that was the idea of the dynamic mod, so that the kites bridles ultimately change shape as the kite changes angles in the sky, which allows benefits such as a direct rear line (I guess this also answers your question about why all the pullies these days). A fixed bridle is a trade-off, or average setting for what everyone wants (ie Power/ fast turning, yet stability - Light bar pressure, yet good depower etc).
Also, I have tried your other proposed bridle design and it does produce much better turning. However, it still has fixed sections of bridle that tend to make the kite surge forward and stall backwards, hence the creation of the Dynamic Mod - fast turning, lighter bar, plus stability improvements.
——- SAFETY HEADS UP——-
If you leave your original pulley attached to the leading edge be very cautious if self launching bow style. Your bridle lines could snag on them. It could result in an instant kite loop launch!
Awesome Wisha, thanks.
Weekend was a most interesting and revealing one. Managed a couple of sessions on the “stock” 9m with a badly set up bar. Boy I forgot how that thing boosts.
I also bagged a quick session on a Best Nemesis and had a good look at a Cabrinha something or other and a Bandit Dos. Your bridle set up is identical to the Bandit. And the Cabrinha I think. Nemesis is way out there with 6 pulleys.
What I did learn was basically everything you describe here though. Little lighter on the bar would be nice, faster turn for sure and a better behaved kite will be most welcome. I’ve just broken the unhooked barrier and really enjoy kite loops so anything that can add some whip to the kite will be appreciated. At the moment is kind of drags its way round a bit.
I’ll definately try your suggested set up now.
Just a query. Is the first V (G, E and I) longer or shorter than the depth of the kite?
The only kiter in the Village
Yeah, the bridle is a little bit of Cab Xbow, a little bit of Bandit Dos. I do like the Best VP2 / VP3 system, but where does performance gain vs simplicity end.
As for the G,E,I lengths they are shorter than the length of the kite, so that they cant snare on a strut end or wingtip.
Thanks again Wisha
I’ve started putting this together now. I’ve also used “bridle line F” from the upper pulley to form the first part of the large V. I now need to either another part or use the 3m line extensions. I don’t use them either. I’m using slightly larger pulleys and short sections of 4mm dyneema throught the pulleys as I have some to hand. All fits together nice and easy so far.
Getting the rear line lengths will be the interesting challenge here.
The only kiter in the Village