Another delaminated mako
Posted: 08 May 2011 03:08 PM   [ Ignore ]
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Hi,

I just noticed my 2010 OR Mako 150 board has recently started to delaminate.  I can see 2 small areas now but I have concerns that they will get bigger with time.  I have read a few posts about this.  What options do I have?  Thank you.

Mike
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Posted: 09 May 2011 10:21 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]
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Send us photos Mike and we can get more specific but the easiest thing to do is clean it with alcohol and let it dry then use Zap-A-Gap epoxy glue to re-bond the surfaces. These delams on last year and older Makos usually result from the rail being banged and pushing in against the softer foam. This results in the bond being broken and water slowly pulling the layers apart. Re-gluing will work.

The 2011 Makos all feature wood cores, something we have worked on being able to introduce for years but were only able to do so this past season. The wood bonds to the epoxy much better which will prevent this from happening but it is also tougher than foam which prevents the rail from being able to be punched in in the 1st place.

John Z

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John A. Zimmerman
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Posted: 10 May 2011 07:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]
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Here are some pics…slight openings in a few areas on both sides.  Some top coat, some bottom.  Thanks.

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CIMG1553.jpg
CIMG1551.jpg
CIMG1550.jpg
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Posted: 11 May 2011 11:19 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]
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Use an xacto knife to clean out the cracks, flush with alcohol to be sure they are clean and let this fully dry out. Once dry, perhaps 24 hours later, use Zap-A-Gap epoxy glue to re-seal the edges, be sure to clamp once glued to hold the edges flush.

It is difficult to tell for sure but it does look like the board has been slightly dinged at these delam points, this can punch in the ABS and lead to the delamination. Certainly that appears to be the case on the top photo and possibly the bottom.

John

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John A. Zimmerman
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Ocean Rodeo Sports Inc
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Ocean Rodeo Performance Over Hype!

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Posted: 11 May 2011 11:29 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]
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Not sure how/where I would’ve banged it but anyway.  Does it have to be zap-a-gap epoxy?  I’m seeing some zap and some zap-a-gap 5/30 min. epoxies online.  Where would I get this?

Thanks.

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Posted: 14 May 2011 03:53 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]
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I just inspected my 150 Mako and found that it is also delaming on the edge. No visible ding on the rail. I found the zap a gap z-poxy 30 minute at Tower Hobby on line. I couldn’t find a local store that carried it. I have the first year mako 150 and have used it a lot so can’t complain too much. Always stored in a bag and not abused. Going to try the repair and see how it holds up. Is there another epoxy that will work as well? Zap a gap is hard to find in local stores. Still love my Mako 150, best all around board made!!

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Posted: 16 May 2011 09:06 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]
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Guys, most epoxy adhesives will do the job just fine. The speed (1 minute, 30 minutes etc.) describes pot-life rather than anything else. If you have a choice, get something really liquid for good penetration and wetting.
You might want to put some box tape tight around the edge in stead of clamping, if you go clamping make sure the pressure is well spread so not to press dents in the board.

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Posted: 17 May 2011 05:45 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]
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Greetings from Alaska (AK).

My old 150x34 Mako had an issue caused between the beach and the baggage claim. Seems my ‘golf’ bag took a heavy end-hit. It delam-ed….........no fault of the board.

Two-Part epoxy (what brand? not important!) and some light clamping was the solution. It has ridden and held up for YEARS since that event.

I expect any other damaged boards as illustrated in the photos (that upper photo shows sure evidence of impact) would be easily repaired as JohnZ advised.

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Posted: 19 February 2013 12:07 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]
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CAUTION
Loctite plastic epoxy will react with the board materials and cause problems. DO NOT USE IT.

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